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Looking at my reflection, I appear to be wearing enormous shimmering pantaloons, perceptible only to me. Youngsters sit in a stone basin pretending to be mermaids, and in the next room resides a chatting legume in a display case, beside a towering pile of bedding. This is the world of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), a leading nineteenth-century's widely adored storytellers. I'm visiting the city of Odense, situated in Funen in the southern region of this Nordic country, to investigate the writer's timeless impact in his birthplace 150 years after his passing, and to find a few fairytales of my own.

The Museum: HC Andersens Hus

HC Andersens Hus is the local exhibition space celebrating the storyteller, featuring his original residence. A curator explains that in past designs of the museum there was minimal emphasis on his fairytales. The writer’s life was examined, but Thumbelina were missing. For guests who visit this place seeking storytelling magic, it was not quite enough.

The redevelopment of the city center, redirecting a main thoroughfare, provided the opportunity to reconsider how the renowned native could be honored. A major architecture competition awarded the Japanese company the renowned designers the contract, with the curators’ new approach at the heart of the layout. The unique wood-paneled museum with interlinked spiral spaces debuted to great fanfare in 2021. “Our goal was to build a place where we avoid discussing Andersen, but we talk like Andersen: with comedy, satire and viewpoint,” notes the curator. The outdoor spaces follow this philosophy: “It’s a garden for wanderers and for giants, it's created to give you a sense of smallness,” he notes, a challenge achieved by clever planting, playing with elevation, scale and numerous twisting trails in a deceptively small space.

Andersen's Impact

He authored multiple memoirs and frequently changed his story. The museum embraces this concept fully; often the opinions of his companions or fragments of correspondence are shown to subtly challenge the author’s own version of happenings. “Andersen is the storyteller, but he's untrustworthy,” notes the representative. The result is a compelling swift exploration of his personal story and creations, mental approaches and best-loved narratives. It’s provocative and whimsical, for grown-ups and youngsters, with a bonus basement fantasy realm, Ville Vau, for the youngest visitors.

Discovering the City

Back in the real world, the modest urban center of the municipality is delightful, with stone-paved roads and traditional Danish homes colored in cheerful shades. The Andersen legacy is all around: the street signals feature the author with his iconic formal headwear, brass footprints provide a free guided stroll, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Every August this focus culminates with the regular HC Andersen festival, which celebrates the author’s legacy through visual arts, movement, stage shows and musical performances.

Recently, the multi-day event had hundreds of events, most of which were free. While visiting this place, I meet artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an writer impersonator narrating adventures. I listen to contemporary performances and see an amazing late-night performance with athletic artists coming down from the town hall and hanging from a construction equipment. Upcoming events during the season are presentations, family art workshops and, broadening the oral history further than the writer, the city’s yearly enchantment celebration.

Each wonderful magical places need a castle, and Fyn boasts numerous historic homes and estates throughout the region

Biking Adventures

Similar to most of Denmark, bikes are the perfect means to navigate in the city and a “bike path” curves through the urban core. From Hotel Odeon, I pedal to the public waterside bathing area, then into the countryside for a loop around Stige Island, a tiny landmass connected by causeway to the mainland. Local inhabitants picnic here in the evening, or enjoy a peaceful time angling, paddleboarding or swimming.

Back in town, I visit Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the menu is inspired by the writer's motifs and tales. The poem Denmark, My Native Land appears at the restaurant, and owner the restaurateur shares excerpts, presented in English, as he introduces the meal. It’s an experience frequent in my visit, the island inhabitants enjoy storytelling and it seems that narrating is always offered here.

Castle Explorations

Every excellent fairytale destinations deserve a fortress, and Fyn boasts over a hundred manors and stately homes around the area. Going on excursions from town, I tour the historic fortress, the continent's most intact historic fortress. While much of it are accessible to the public, Egeskov is also the private residence of the noble family and his wife, the princess. I contemplate if she can feel a small legume through a stack of {mattresses